What it’s like to hike to the end of the world in Chile’s Tierra del Fuego
Stepping along the frozen banks of the Ukika River, I walk a trail through a southern beech evergreen forest whose branches are sprinkled with groups of orange fungi, each round and plump as a golf ball. The trees are worlds in miniature, covered in small bryophytes—mosses, liverworts, and hornworts—and adorned with feathery lichen named old man’s beard, which streams by as I walk. Twisted roots and fallen logs crisscross the trail, while the howling wind makes the canopy groan ominously. I’m completely alone, except for the occasional rhythmic tapping … Read more